Monday, March 28, 2011

3-11 Earthquake Japan

Thank you so much to everyone who donated to the Hello Sandwich Help Japan Relief Support. Together we have raised over $2000 for the victims of the earthquake. Unfortunately I have had to shut down the fundraising now as PayPal have shut down my account :(

(This is also the reason my zines are no longer available online. I am so sorry about this and for everyone who has emailed me, I promise I am trying to get this up and running again as soon as possible.)


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My apartment after the quake.


2:46. I was in my Shimokitazawa apartment on Friday March 11 when the magnitude 9.0 quake stuck. At first I thought it was just like any other small quake we often have in Tokyo and I tweeted ‘wa – scary!’ Then my TV started to shake indicating this was not like other quakes. My glassware began to shake loudly so I ran to my kitchen and began to place glasses in a safer location. The floor was shaking. My entire apartment was shaking. I grabbed my iphone and raced down the three flights of stairs and outside.

A man in a van had pulled up as his car was shaking too much to drive. A stranger. I grabbed onto this strangers hands screaming ‘ kowaii! Kowaii!’ (scary! Scary!). He kept saying ‘Daijoubu. Daijoubu.’ (It’s okay. It’s okay.) There are no better words to describe the way that the ground was moving other than a wave. It was terrifying. The land that you know and rely on was moving up and down. A driveway that was recently layed next to my apartment was cracking. Puffs of ground were coming up. A parked car was rolling. Everyone was rushing out from his or her apartments.

A few minutes later the earth stopped moving. My legs and hands were shaking so much I could hardly dial the numbers on my phone. My neighbours and I ran into my landladies shop to check the earthquake size on TV. At this stage it was a magnitude 5 in Tokyo. And shockingly 7 in Sendai. This was later revised to be a magnitude 9 quake. The largest earthquake in Japanese recorded history, and the fourth largest earthquake in the world. Not long after this the first of many after shakes came. The telegraph poles, buildings and cars shook. The ground shook. Everyone was terrified.

My landlady kept speaking to me in Japanese, pointing at the park and repeating the word ‘anzen’. A word I didn’t at the time understand but now understand it to mean ‘safe’. I waited in the park alone with Japanese families. I listened to them speaking Japanese. Shaking. Shivering. We didn’t know when the next earthquake would come. I couldn’t understand much of what they were saying. Eventually the families in the park decided it was time to return to our apartments. I didn’t want to. I didn't want to be alone. A girl in her pajamas and I made plans to reunite in the park if another quake came.

I returned reluctantly to my apartment. Broken stuff everywhere. Glasses, mirror, TV, espresso machine, everything had fallen to the floor. I wore my shoes inside my apartment for the first time and instantly packed my go-bag. I tried to look at information online but was in an absolute panic. I had no idea what to do. With each aftershock I kept looking out of my window to see if my pajama girl friend was back in the park. She wasn’t.

Twitter and email were my savior as all of the phone lines went down after the quake. Messages incoming and outgoing between friends and family to make sure everyone was okay. One message was to my amazing Japanese friend who ended up offering to collect me with her husband’s family car. As we drove along the 246 our car shook with more after shakes. We stayed together and drank beer and ate dinner. We watched the disaster of Sendai unfold on TV. We cried.

You know something is wrong in Tokyo when the trains are late. You know something is terribly wrong when the trains stop completely. I walked from Komazawa koen to Shimokitazawa with thousands of other Tokyo residents. It is one of the strangest memories I have. Streets packed with pedestrians. Roads packed with cars. Everyone on their mobiles. But hardly anyone able to get mobile service. My best friend met me halfway at Sangenjaya station. We hugged on the corner at the lights. She told me the story of when the quake hit her workplace and how evacuated with a man in a wheelchair. She is a hero. We went to the local Lawson and bought wine and tried to sleep. Throughout the night the emergency quake phone alarm kept going off. A haunting sound that we began to get used to. We weren’t sure if we should run or stay.

Constant aftershocks were pretty much the case for anyone in Tokyo the following few days. I was too scared to have showers in case another shock came. I developed a routine of leaving my clothes in an evacuation layout in the bathroom whilst I had 30-second showers. I washed my hair separately in the bathtub in case. I heard friends had slept with their clothes on. These days were spent cleaning up from the quake, buying supplies ‘in case’ and finding what news you could online. I also went through stages of ‘its fine, it’s over, we survived’.

One afternoon my friends and I met at Yoyogi park to try to relax a little from the constant shocks. Soon the Fukushima nuclear plant began to worry us and my friends started leaving Tokyo, either for southern Japanese cities such as Osaka or Kyoto or overseas. Japanese friends started returning to their hometowns. Most people were in the mind frame of ‘should I stay or should I go?’ I ended up edging on the side of caution. By the time I had left more than 20 of my friends had left Tokyo.

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Photo Alexis Wuillaume

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Photos Mark Drew

Like most of my friends I was dizzy and almost sea sick from all of the aftershocks. Because of this it became hard to tell what was a shock and what was imagination. The pegs on my washing hangers became my marker to see if the ground was shaking. Half of the times I checked it was actually shaking. The quakes came frequently.

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Photo Mark Drew

Shelves in convenience stores were emptying out with panic buying. And although the shops were open, the streets had an eerie feeling. Controlled blackouts were expected throughout the week but not a torch or battery was in stock. I rummaged through the mess pile from the quake in my apartment to find my bike light.

I stayed at a friend’s house on the night before my flight out of Tokyo. A level headed friend who was planning on staying in Tokyo. We drank chuhai and painted our nails to try to relax. The morning I was due to leave however, she received a phone call from a friend of hers who was a reporter in Tokyo who suggested she should pack a bag fast and leave Tokyo.

With power cuts and train lines down no one really knew how crowded it was trying to leave Tokyo. The airport bus website was down. I threw things into my suitcase in a panic, didn’t shower, and headed to Shinjuku to take the bus to Narita airport. I was wearing pajamas under my coat. Leggings as pants. And by this time I had the same odango for three days.

On the way to the airport, and as the Odakyu train line was arriving at Shinjuku, hundreds of earthquake phone alarms sounded. Another aftershock. Underground at one of the worlds busiest train stations was not where I wanted to be for a magnitude 6 quake. To my surprise not one Japanese panicked or made a noise. The train doors opened and everyone filed out in a calm and orderly manner. It struck me more than ever how amazing the Japanese are. I began to have mixed feelings about leaving. More than ever I wanted to stay and help in some way. I felt it was my new home and I was abandoning it when things got tough. Taking the good but not the bad. But I continued to leave.

As my friend and I waited for our flights out of Tokyo the entire Narita airport building shook with two more aftershocks. When my flight took off some passengers clapped. Some cried. Heading out of Tokyo we were safe for the time being. Although nothing compared to the horror of Sendai and north Japan, this was an experience that shaped our lives forever.

Some Tokyo people I know have written about their experiences on the quake. You can find their stories below.


Fashimi
Jollygoo
Cameron McKean
Patrick Tsai
Aleister Kelman


Update: Thank you everyone for your comments, twitter messages and emails. They mean the world to me. I am currently in Sydney with my family and friends having a bit of a relax and some down time while hopefully the aftershocks and radiation settles down. I should have mentioned too, that I am absolutely going back to Tokyo! Most likely in mid-April. I hope I can see my first ever hanami!


Love Sandwich
xoxo

48 comments:

  1. Thanks for sharing, Ebony! I know what you mean when u said u initially thought it was another of those shakes. Who would have imagined?! Although you chose to leave Tokyo, you've done alot to help raise funds!

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  2. Thank you so much Cookie Cutter! Yes I would not have been able to be so focused on raising funds if I was still in Tokyo.
    Thank you so much.
    Love Sandwich
    xoxo

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  3. thanks for sharing your experience!! i have almost all the information from tv and it is so good to get a personal insight. sometimes things start to seem surreal when you see them on tv and feel so distant. and thanks for the links to other people's stories!

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  4. thanks so much for your personal story. I know it's a really hard question, but are you planning to go back? StewOz

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  5. Hello Mani, I know my story is nothing compared to the horror or North Japan, but even in Tokyo it was the most terrifying day of my life, so I thought I should record it on Hello Sandwich. Thank you for your comment. xoxo

    Hello Anonymous, I am planning on going back to Tokyo. It's my home now. My life is there. Though I am keeping a watch of the radiation at the moment, I hope to be back for an exciting craft workshop mid April.

    Love Love
    Hello Sandwich
    xoxo

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  6. Thank you so much for sharing the details of your story with the world. I have been following your blog and twitter very closely since the earthquake. I hope for the best for you and Japan.

    You are unbelievably strong.

    Sandy

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  7. Sandy thank you so much for your nice comment. I don't feel strong at all. My one or two friends who actually stayed in Tokyo after the quake, even with the continuing radiation scares are strong, but thank you for being so kind. Thank you also for your continued support with Hello Sandwwich. I hope one day I will be excited about craft again and able to post some craft things.
    Love Sandwich
    xoxo

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  8. Yes thank you for sharing, I was sitting here reading this to my husband unable to even imagine how you must have felt. But I got scared just reading it. I'm glad you are safe!

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  9. Thanks for posting this, it made me tear up all over again. I'm so happy for the people that made it through ok, and so sad for those who were in the wrong place at the wrong time. I can't wait to go back and visit.

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  10. Thank you for posting this. I'm thinking about you and all your friends and family and all the people of Japan.

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  11. I cried reading this. What a harrowing experience. I'm glad you fared well. I feel like a coward and wish I was brave enough to do more than donate money. I hope you'll return to your home, better than ever after this. Good luck.

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  12. Thank you so much for sharing your story and for the links. I have not stopped thinking of Japan and worrying about everyone there. I feel so helpless. I want to do more and all I have done is donate what little I can. How are you coping emotionally now that you are out of there?

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  13. I just want to give you a big hug, on your own and coping with all that. You are very brave and I really appreciate you writing your experiences out for us to read.
    The Japanese people cope and behave very well in these circumstances and I really like that. Seeing the queues and orderly groups on the television reports was so surreal as every other country would be in utter panic and looting would be rife.
    Take your time, and enjoy that you are safe, Tokyo will still be there when you are ready to go back.
    Keep happy Sandwich ^.^

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  14. It must have been so surreal for you Ebony. Don't worry about what is strong or not. Your involvement with this is obvious, even if you are not in Japan at the moment.

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  15. Thanks for sharing. This was such a terrible event and I'm glad you got through it safe and sound. I was actually supposed to travel to Japan, to Tokyo then Sendai where my best friend lives and teaches. But because of the quake I had to cancel my trip. My friend lives just outside of Sendai, she teaches at several schools, one of which is right on the coast which I doubt is there anymore.

    It took many days until me and her mom could find her but then found her in an evacuee camp at one of the schools in her town. She hadnt had a shower in a week, hardly any food/water and no sleep. She was finally able to grab a bus ride down from Sendai to Tokyo. The issue was, the U.S. was only chartering flights out to Korea or Taiwan but she really wanted to come back home (Boston) so she ended up having to just buy a flight to get back. She's safe, now, she was quite scared and if she had been teaching her school on the Sendai coast on Friday (she usually teaches there on Tuesdays) she may have been stuck or worse.

    I'm constantly praying for the Japanese people with this terrible event and I'm glad many were able to get to safety.

    xoxo

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  16. thank you for sharing this. i have a few friends in tokyo who i know would have been feeling exactly the same as you. it's very eye-opening to see it from your perspective in shimokitazawa. i hope you are recovering safely at home.

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  17. I hope the best for you and Japan from Spain. I love Japanish culture and to visit Tokyo is one of my wish in life.

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  18. Ebony, thank you for opening yourself up and sharing this experience with us. It was very moving to read and my heart goes out.

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  19. Reading this and other personal accounts of the quake is so much more insightful then what has been in the news. I cant imagine what it was like.

    So glad you are safe and my thoughts are with Japan!

    xx

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  20. Thank you for sharing your story of such a difficult time. I hope you're able to return home soon. Your efforts in fundraising have been fantastic!

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  21. hi ebony.reading this actually made me shake again! hugs to you and hopefully see you back in tokyo one day x

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  22. Ebony, Thank you so much for sharing your story. I have been checking your blog and thinking about you in the days since the earthquake. Once your paypal account is back up will you continue your fundraiser? I am glad you are well and planning to return to your new home when it is safe.
    I was in an earthquake once and it was the most terrifying experience of my life - seeing the earth rolling in waves is something your mind almost cannot accept. I think you are a brave and strong person who went through a terrifying mutli-day ordeal. You need some time to mentally gather your strength and I know you will bounce back stronger than ever! Please keep us posted and thank you again for sharing with us your personal experiences.

    Heather

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  23. Really well written descriptive and honest post. My aunt lives in Tokyo and has expressed the same feelings as you have mentioned. Glad your safe... you made the right decision. Were praying for beautiful inspiring Japan :)

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  24. i don't have words to explain how sad i feel reading your experience... hope everything is gonna be okay now. where are you now? and what are you doing?

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  25. Thanks for sharing your experiences. I still can't get over the empty shelves in supermarkets and convini's.

    Japan Australia

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  26. I thank you, Ebony, for sharing your experience of this terrible disaster with us. I still can only imagine how difficult and frightening life in Japan has been in the aftermath of the earthquakes and tsunami, but have a bit of knowledge of what you have been going through. My thoughts and prayers continue to be with all the people of Sendai and other parts of Japan.

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  27. Wow Ebony, so well written, and I had no idea our experiences and thoughts were so similar in those harrowing days. Particularly the shower situation... my flatmates and I were far too scared to shower! When you get a chance please pop over and read my story. It's not nearly as well organised as yours but I wanted to attempt to record the most terrifying day of my life. I too still feel very torn for leaving, but when I think back to the fear I felt that day and the days that followed, I feel it was the right decision for now. Thankyou for the links to other people's stories too, it really helps to read what others also experienced xx

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  28. This made me cry... thank you for sharing. And I'm so glad you are safe. I think the decision you made was a good one. It's a lot harder when you don't know the language 100%. And you'll go back and help them rebuild in your own way! You're already making such a big difference my donating your zines!

    Thank you for sharing this. Let's keep sending hope to Japan, and staying strong!

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  29. Thanks for writing this. It puts things into perspective for me.

    Glad you're safe!

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  30. Thank you for sharing so honestly about your experience, reading a firsthand account of the earthquake just makes me want to pray more and help Japan more. I'm glad you're safe!

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  31. Omg! I'm so glad you wrote a lot if the stuff I experienced too. I was totally alone in Jiyugaoka, just had finished lunch at Ikanika. I had similar experiences, I hugged a stranger through the earthquake, I had to walk home to Nakameguro in the freezing cold for an 1.5 hr with no map, just followed the people bread crumbs. I got home and thank god for wifi I was hysterical on skype and FB. Also packed a go back and my suitcase as soon as the airport opened my family was trying get me out. I slept in my clothes was terrified of showering afraid of having to run out naked in the freezing cold. And I had such motion sickness from all the tremors i couldn't eat for two days, then i wasn't sure if I was imagining some of them. Glad you're okay. I had a mad dash to the airport Sunday morning after the quake, I took the first flight out to anywhere, but luckily it was in the States. I know that the folks up north had it really bad and they are amazing for surviving such a catastrophic event.

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  32. Thanks for sharing.
    Having grow up in Singapore, I have no perspective of how things get during disaster, you story makes me realized so much. I'm very touch and hope everyone continue to do whatever they can, big or small to help Japan. Stay positive and safe.

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  33. ooooh ebony...reading your story first hand, i am so glad you and hiki and friends are safe!
    yesss, we believe the japanese have a very rare spirit that keeps them going no matter what. the band together as an entire community and know how to "be one"
    some say its the old samurai spirit. whatever it may be, all our hope and prayers are with you and them and everyone else.

    would you say it be okay if i still visit japan this year?
    my mom says i shouldnt go after graduation now...

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  34. oh ebony i am so glad you are safe. what an experience you have described - the way the earth moved - i can not even begin to imaging how terrifying this must have been. we are helping japan where we can and our thoughts are with everyone as the nuclear information unfolds. i wish you well on your return in the next few weeks too. thank you for sharing your story. big hugs xx

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  35. Great post. We are still struggling but I know that Japan will bounce back from this catastrophe...!

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  36. Thank you for sharing this with us, it's important to bring the story to life. Don't feel bad about going to Australia, you have to keep safe and be with famiily too, look to the future and all the joy you can spread when you go back. Take care.

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  37. This post really moved me, thanks for sharing this tragic experience with us. I'm hoping things get real better real soon.


    Camila F.

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  38. Hi Ebony - thank you for sharing your perspective; it's so encouraging to see the ways the blogging community has risen to the occasion after the earthquakes. I'm so sorry to hear that your PayPal account is shut down! I just posted about your fundraiser on my blog and will update it with the bad news. That's wonderful that you've raised so much; please keep us posted if you get up and running again. All the best!

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  39. Such a moving story, the first thing my 11 year old daughter said when we heard of the quake was I hope Hello Sandwich is alright. I shall read this to her after school. Well done on your fund raising and I hope you and your friends find some peace in Japan once more. Best wishes to you from Laurie

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  40. Thank you for sharing your story, Sandwich-san. I've been thinking about you. Stay well.

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  41. I am still in Japan and the first hanami parties are this weekend! We are holding a charity hanami in Yoyogi to raise money. I had to keep teaching for 4 hours after the quake (after we cleaned up)it was so hard. Our school didn't close for 1 day and the students all kept coming every day!!! Japan is strong and its people are tenacious and amazing. I am glad I stayed even though I was scared, I would have felt bad leaving my students >.< its good to hear you are coming back, its sad that so many gaijin left but I understand why, it was terrfying!! Hana xxx

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  42. Thanks for sharing your story! It's stories like these that are personal that really affect me. My friends were being so ridiculous today that I wanted to cry. They said things like... we don't need to help Japan. They have their own money. They're rich, and we're not.

    I don't know. It peeved me so much. They even mentioned how Japan didn't help us during Hurricane Katrina (which they did!) AKDKFKADSFKADSFKAKD. I wish more people understand the turmoil right now.

    Some people are so selfish. It irks me.

    Thanks again for the story. I'm going to donate to Red Cross right now.

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  43. Ebony my thoughts are with you from Canada! I can't believe all that happened - we can watch the news from abroad but reading what you wrote really gives you a sense of what everyone is feeling. I visited a couple months ago and was so inspired - it breaks my heart thinking about how much has happened! I'm glad to read everyone is banding together, even complete strangers. Be safe!

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  44. your story touched me more than any report i saw in the tv-news. thank u for sharing your feelings. best best best for u. for what comes.

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  45. Paypal is crap. Have you considered Google Checkout?

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  46. Hi Ebony,
    It seems such an unsuitable way to reintroduce myself and say hi, but it's Laura Richards here, (my sister Kath) went to high school with you and of course we were at cofa at the same time! I just wanted to let you know I put a link up on my parent's blog of your story (I am a primary school teacher these days) so they can read your account of the tsunami and quake, I hope you dont mind. The link is here. http://parentclassroom.blogspot.com/
    Sincerely wishing you the best! L

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  47. hey sandwich

    i was in singapore on a business trip when the quake happened. just my feelings of being so far from home (cape town)when something of that magnitude happens made me truly realise how fragile life is. I sat watching the Tv in my hotel room, sobbing for the people this had affected. I cannot relate to the feelings you went through....i don't think any of us can unless we experience similiar.

    stay inspired...thats what life is truly about.
    love your blog and thank you for inspiring me x

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